SCREWED

OBAMA DOESNTCARE! SCREWED AGAIN BY THE SCOTUS AND POTUS

 

Scalia on Obamacare: 'We Should Start Calling This Law SCOTUScare'

conservation

on occasion I get older F-S knives that have light rust on the guards or top nuts. While it is important not to reduce the value by scrubbing the patina off, it is also important to preserve the knife for future generations. Recently I received an India-made WW-II F-S with a steel guard and handle. The joint between the two had developed a small ring of surface rust. To remove it I used the solution shown in the photo. BUT you must experiment with it on a small spot first before using it. I have found it to be gentle on even painted surfaces but your experience may be different so proceed cautiously! I had another knife that was rusting heavily at the guard and this stuff not only removed it but prevented further rusting. I had rust problems with this knife for over 10 years! So be a good conservatoire and try it but be very careful not to remove any original finish. I make no claims, or accept any responsibility for damage to your knife for using this chemical, so be sure to test it carefully. I take the spray can top and squirt a little liquid into the cap. I then use a Q-tip to lightly scrub the rusted area and then remove the rust and liquid with either a clean Q-tip or a Kleenex tissue.

Genuine or not?

Just because its old, stamped Sheffield, England, and has some rust does not mean it is a genuine World War Two Commando knife. Some dealers will say World War Two “era.” What exactly do they mean? Are they saying between 1939 and 1945, or somewhere between WW-I and Korea? The quickest way to determine if a third pattern is genuine WW-II is by looking at the guard. If the guard is thin ___ and exhibits shearing marks around the edges it is a postwar knife. World War Two knives had the guards nicely polished on all of the surfaces including the edges. If it is stamped “Sheffield England” it is probably not WW-II either. And one further test is to look for the casting mold number near the pommel. It might be worn, but there should be a raised number, 1 – 4, present. If not it is a post-war knife. Sheaths can be a dead giveaway, BUT, it may not be the original sheath for the knife. So you might be able to determine the sheath is post-war but not whether the knife is. What prompted me to write these few paragraphs was a knife on auction that was clearly post-war yet described as WW-II era. The seller also said the sheath might not be original to the knife since it was stamped “Germany.” Really! What a revelation, that during the war Germans were probably not making sheaths for British Commando knives. It is quite common to find an old knife in a newer sheath. New sheaths have a sloppy fit and wide black elastic. Old sheaths fit well and have narrow brown elastic.Do your homework before buying. Stop by our website. Knife shown is NATO 1983 issue and not WW-II. http://www.fairbairnsykesfightingknives.com/

Cloak and Dagger

I have been fascinated by the enthusiasm of the young man operating the new Cloak and Dagger company. He now has a blog started and I hope you will visit it. His main interest right now is focused on clandestine weapons. He and his friend Xylon Cate made the awesome skull dagger I listed on here a few months back. I have a couple things on order from him. If you are interested I'd suggest you contact him before his list gets too long. Once people see his stuff its not going to be long before he gets real busy.

http://cloakanddaggerww2.blogspot.com/2015_06_01_archive.html (copy and paste into your search bar.)